Amber Palace

	Amber Palace, Jaipur
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Entering the Amber Palace complex from the east through Suraj Pole (Sun Gate), you step into the main courtyard, Jaleb Chowk, where there's another opportunity to ride an elephant (Rs80 for a turn around the courtyard). In its southwest corner, the Shri Sila Devi temple is the Kuchwaha shrine to the goddess of war, Sila, an aspect of Kali; the image inside was brought to Amber from Bengal in 1604. Next to this, at the head of a flight of steps, Singh Pole (Lion Gate) provides access to the palaces.

The lofty Hall of Public Audience, Diwan-i-Am, used by Raja Jai Singh I and his successors from 1639, stands in the entrance courtyard, while opposite, in the south wall of the yard, the exquisitely painted Ganesh Pole leads through narrow passages into the charming royal apartments. Here, protruding from the east wall, the dazzling Sheesh Mahal houses what were the private chambers of the maharaja and his queen. Shards of mirror and colored glass form an intricate mosaic that entirely covers the inner and outer walls and ceilings of the rooms.

From a distance they seem to be covered in jewels, tinted with pastel shafts of sunlight that seep through the Arabic-style stained-glass windows. Above the Sheesh Mahal, the small chamber of the brilliant Jas Mandir radiates with the light and color of similar mosaics. Guarded from the glare of the sun in the east by delicate marble screens, it served as a cool refuge in summer.

A fountained garden separates the mirrored palace from the "pleasure palace" opposite, Sukh Mahal , where marble rooms are cooled by water cascading through fine perforations in the centre of the wall - an early and very efficient system of air-conditioning. The doors are inlaid with ivory and sandalwood.

The oldest part of the complex, the Palace of Man Singh I, lies south of the main quadrangle. The pillared biradiri in the centre of the courtyard was once a meeting area for the maharanis, shrouded from men's eyes by flowing curtains. Narrow passages and stairwells connect small rooms and open balconies on all sides.

Walking down the hill behind the palace complex - via the elephant stable in the western corner of Jaleb Chowk - brings you to the temples and ruined mansions of Amber village.

Amber Palace: daily 9am-4.30pm; Rs100, Rs50 extra for camera, Rs100 extra for video