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Indian Coffee House,
MI Road, 100m west of Ajmeri Gate. The usual fine coffee (try their "special"),
south Indian snacks, and decent breakfast options (including unusually good
plain toast), dished up by waiters in cotton cummerbunds. Open 7.30am-9pm.
Lassiwalla, opposite Niro's , MI Road. A gastronomic institution in Jaipur
(during the summer, you have to queue for thirty minutes to be served), famous
for its sublime lassis, still served in old-style, hygienic terracotta mugs. Be
sure to order one without ice.
LMB, Johari Bazaar. Scrupulously pure-veg, high-caste cooking ("No onions, No
garlic"), served in a large, cool dining hall whose classic early Peter Sellers
movie-set decor was, tragically, under threat of renovation when we last looked.
This has long been regarded as the best restaurant in town, but the food is no
longer what it was, drenched in sickly deshi ghee and too spicy for most tastes.
However, their famous paneer ghewar (honeycomb cake soaked in treacle) and
potato-and-cashew nut tikkis dished up piping hot (in spicy mango sauce) at the
sweet counter outside are a must. Open 11.30am-3.30pm & 7-11pm, snacks only
4-7pm.
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Mediterraneo, Hotel
Vijeet Palace , Sansar Chandra Road. Lively Italian terrace restaurant with
views of the fort. Their pizzas (Rs120-200) are wood-fired, their pasta dishes
fresh every day, and the coffee excellent. Beer is served in Prohibition-style
teapots pending a liquor licence.
Natraj, MI Road. The
Chanakya's main competitor, famed for its paneer dishes and superb sweets (try
their melt-in-the-mouth rasmala , flavored with cardamom and saffron).
Niro's, MI Road. Along with Copper Chimney, this place gets the local vote for
best non-veg food in Jaipur, although they offer a full multi-cuisine and veg
menu, too. No alcohol. Open 10am-11.30pm.
Pizza Hut, 109 Ganpati Plaza, MI Road. Phone 0141/388627. Doubtless not what you
came to Jaipur for, but the food and decor's just the same as back home, the
prices low by comparison (Rs100-200), and they'll deliver free to your hotel
room or guesthouse. back
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