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Being so popular with
foreign tourists, Jaisalmer offers peanut butter, Vegemite, Marmite, pizza,
pancakes, apple pie and cakes on its menus alongside typical Indian dishes. The
choice of places to eat is thin. Many are rooftop restaurants with a view, often
attached to hotels, but officially these have been banned because they are
eyesores, although it remains to be seen how far that ban will be enforced. If
you're on a tight budget, a good place to fill up on freshly cooked, spicy food
is the little pao bhaji stall on Gopa Chowk (opposite the bhang-lassi-wallah),
which does a roaring trade in the evening. Afterwards, stroll through the bazaar
for a glass of hot badam (milk, flavoured with cardamom and whole almonds), from
the huge bubbling vats on the roadside between Amar Sagar Pole and Hanuman
Circle.
Jaisal Palace , behind the royal palace. Popular tourist restaurant on the top
floor of a midscale hotel, with a long pure-veg menu strong on Rajasthani
specialities, including dal-batti-churma (crumbly lentil cake flavoured with
ghee), sangari (spicy beans and local vegetables) with gatta (dhal-flour
dumplings). They also have a great chill-out terrace with optimum fort views.
Little Tibet , Fort. Scrupulously clean travellers' café-restaurant run by a
team of smart young Tibetans. Their extensive menu includes all the usual
Indian/Chinese choices, plus tasty enchilladas, pasta and Tibetan momos .
Careful, hygenic cooking (their veg are washed in iodized water), and a good
venue for breakfast.
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Natraj , facing the
top floor of Salim Singh's haveli . Pleasant rooftop and indoor non-veg
restaurant, famous for its malai chicken and malai kofta. The quality food is
soft on spices and moderately priced. Open 8am-11pm.
Seema , opposite Salim Singh's haveli . This place looks pretty run-of-the-mill,
but it serves some of the town's top tandoori food, at a fraction of Trio's
prices. Delicious korma, tikka and piping hot naan bread.
Surya , Surya Guest House , southeast side of the fort. The thalis served in
this tiny hotel restaurant, at the top of a beautifully weathered old haveli ,
are mediocre, but the romantic decor, low tables, bolsters and candlelight make
it a memorable place to dine. Best to book ahead, as space is limited.
Trio , Gandhi Chowk. Sumptuous Mughlai food, antique decor, snappy service and
live folk music make this a wonderful place to eat; excellent value for its
price range. The safari soup is, as the menu claims, memorable. Open
7.30am-10pm, meals noon-3pm & 6.30-10pm.
Vyas Meals , in the fort by the handicraft shops on the way to the Jain temples.
Small, unpretentious place run by an elderly couple who do superb home-style veg
thalis and snacks at unbeatable prices. Eat in or takeaway. Open 10am-10pm.
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