Kankroli and Rajsamand, Udaipur

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Northeast of Nathdwara, NH-8 winds through 17km of undulating scrub before reaching Kankroli, 65km from Udaipur. This dusty little market town stands on the shores of the vast Rajsamand Lake , whose construction was commissioned by Maharana Raj Singh in the seventeenth century after a terrible drought swept Rajasthan.

On the lake's western shore, a few kilometres out of town, is Nauchowki , a collection of nine chowks (pavilions), on platforms above the steps leading to the water. With carved pillars and ceilings showing scenes from the life of Krishna, these chowks were erected by Raj Singh to commemorate his marriage to Princess Charumati of Kishangarh, an act that saved her from the matrimonial clasp of Aurangzeb.

The Dwarkadish temple overlooking the southern shore houses an image of Krishna installed by Raj Singh in 1676, and has a sanctuary similar to that at Nathdwara. It forms part of an old palace whose passages wind through low-ceilinged rooms to covered walkways beside the lake. On steps descending to the water you can buy grain to feed the flocks of pigeons who survive on the charity of pilgrims.


 

The best views of the lake are to be had from the Digambara Jain temple, dedicated to Adinath, which crowns a steep hill between Nauchowki and the bus stand. From here you can see the Dwarkadish temple, Nauchowki, scattered old palaces on the nearby hills, and the Aravalli landscape rolling south as far as the eye can see.

 

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