Kumbalgarh, Udaipur

	Kumbalgarh. Udaipur
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The remote hilltop fort of Kumbalgarh, 84km north of Udaipur, is the most formidable of the 32 constructed by Maharana Kumbha in the fifteenth century. Protected by a series of seven thick ramparts, it was only successfully besieged once, when a confederacy led by Akbar poisoned the Sisodias' water supply - the Moghul emperor later returned it to them anyway.

Aside from the impressive fortifications and ancient monuments they enclose, the main reason to venture out here is to experience the idyllic Aravalli countryside. Winding through a string of tribal villages and picturesque valleys, the Udaipur road alone more than repays the effort, and once you've reached the top of the range the views are superb.

The most memorable panorama of all is the one from the pinnacle of Kumbalgarh palace, crowning the summit of the fort. A guide will show you through the series of gateways and residential quarters to the room where Udai Singh was raised by his nurse after fleeing Chittaurgarh in 1535, and the topmost Cloud Palace (so named because during the monsoons it sits in the clouds), restored and furnished by Udaipur's Fateh Singh early this century. From the rooftops, you gain striking birds' eye views over the Jain and Hindu temples scattered across the plateau.

The oldest of them are thought to date from the second century; the tombs of Kumbha (murdered by his eldest son) and his grandson Prithviraj (poisoned by his brother-in-law) stand to the east.

Provided you're equipped with good shoes and ample provisions, the best way to explore these more remote monuments is on foot, via the old walls. Some 36km of crenellated ramparts wind around the rim of the hilltop, and it is possible to complete a circuit in two comfortable days, sleeping rough midway around. You won't need a guide, but be sure to take food and water as there are no permanent settlements.

Lining the deep valley that plunges west from the fort down to the plains, the Kumbalgarh Wildlife Sanctuary comprises a dense swathe of woodland that's a stronghold for wolves, leopards and panthers. With a local guide, you can trek through it to Ranakpur, an excellent hike of between four and five hours. Entry to the sanctuary costs Rs50 (plus Rs50 for cameras); foreigners need permits , obtainable from the District Forest Officer at nearby Kelwara , or through either of the upmarket hotels if you're staying in one. Both the Aodhi and Kumbalgarh Fort can also arrange guides for the trek, but you'll save a lot of money by contacting one yourself: ask at the café just inside the fort gates