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The
serene lakeside location chosen by Udai for his new capital made a welcome
change from the craggy heights of Chittaurgarh. He enlarged the lake, which drew
water from mountains up to 160km away, and now covers eight square kilometers.
Later rulers added dams and canals to prevent flooding during the monsoon.
The two islands in the lake, topped with the ivory-white domes and arches of
private palaces, are the most familiar and photogenic features of Udaipur. Jag
Niwas , now the Lake Palace Hotel , is the larger of the two, built as a summer
palace during the reign of Jagat Singh (1628-52). If you aren't staying here,
you can visit the palace for lunch, dinner or afternoon tea; the price includes
the boat ride from the mainland (booking advisable).
The larger Jag Mandir , on the island to the south, has changed little since its
construction by Karan Singh in 1615. It takes its name from Jagat Singh who
added to the initial structure. Intended as a small Rajput palace, it was never
used as such; Karan Singh offered refuge here to the Moghul prince Khurum (later
Emperor Shah Jahan), exiled by his father, Emperor Jahangir, in the 1620s.
Khurum succeeded his father while still in Udaipur, and the Moghul gathering for
the occasion defied the established code of Rajput-Moghul enmity. During the
1857 Mutiny the island once again served as a safe haven, this time for European
women and children.
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The main building
facing the City Palace has detailed stone inlay work within its domed roof. In
front of it a green marble chhatri carved with vines and flowers is the
centerpiece of a garden guarded by stone elephants. Jag Mandir's only
inhabitants other than flocks of birds are three royal servants who tend the
gardens and grow flowers for the maharana's celebrations.
Half-hour boat rides around the lake depart from the jetty behind the City
Palace (hourly: April-Sept 8-11am & 3-6pm; Oct-March 10am-noon & 2-5pm; Rs75),
while an hour's trip (hourly 2-6pm; Rs150) includes a stop at Jag Mandir. The
view of the palaces and shoreline from the lake at sunset is one of the most
memorable images of Rajput splendor. To make the most of them by boat, however,
you'll have to sit on the side facing the palace (they usually run anticlockwise
around the lake, so check when you get on).
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