Lakshmangarh, Jaipur

	Lakshmangarh, Jaipur
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The most imposing feature of Lakshmangarh, 20km south of Fatehpur, is the nineteenth-century fort, hewn from steep, smooth grey rocks, that dominates the west side of town. It is now empty and dim inside, though you can climb the ramp to the summit to enjoy a spectacular view.

Lakshmangarh is easy to explore, thanks to a symmetrical street grid inspired by that of Jaipur.

It holds three principal squares, several wells and temples, and plenty of richly painted havelis . Just below the fort, near the bus stand, stands the huge Char Chowk Haveli .

Built around four large courtyards ( chowks ), it remains in private ownership, and access is therefore restricted. In any case, it's best seen from the fort, from where its peculiar design can be appreciated.

To see other excellent - and amusing - frescoes in Lakshmangarh search out the heavily painted Kyal and Naria havelis in the southeast of town, the scenes of European women on walls near the clock tower, and Sanganeeria Haveli, east of the Radha Murlimanohar temple.

In the far east of town, near a chhatri and a well, the bright but dilapidated Pansari Haveli shelters a semi permanent settlement of lohars , nomadic ironworkers.