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 Jodhpur's
Meherangarh Fort, provides what must be the most authentic surviving taste of
the ceaseless round of war, honor and extravagance that characterized Rajputana.
Unlike the fort in Jaisalmer, it is uninhabited, its paths trodden only by
visitors to the temples and palaces within its high crenellated walls. Allow at
least a couple of hours for a tour (guides Rs100 for 1-5 people, Rs150 for 6 or
more) of the various exhibitions inside the palace, followed by a stroll out to
the Durga temple, perched on the far southern tip of the precipice, from where
the views over the old city are superb. A good place to steel yourself for the
visit, or recover afterwards, is the fort's cool little restaurant, just inside
the main entrance.
On the wall next to Loha Pole, the sixth of seven gates designed to hinder the
ascent of enemies up a steep winding cobbled road, are the handprints of
Maharaja Man Singh's widows. Following the Rajput code of honor, they
voluntarily ended their lives in 1843 on their husband's pyre, in defiance of
the law against sati passed in 1829 by the British. As you stop to look at them,
musicians and dancers will strike up in the hope of receiving a tip.
Beyond the massive Suraj Pole, the final gate, lie the palaces that now serve as
the Meherangarh Museum (same opening hours as fort but closed 1-2.30pm). From
the courtyards, you can see the fantastic jali (lattice) work that almost
entirely covers their sandstone walls and balconies.
The exotic names of the palaces evoke a courtly society that in between fighting
violent battles loved to indulge in beauty and elegance. In the Jhanki Mahal, or
"Queen's Palace", there's a colorful array of cradles of former rulers, while
Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace) houses the majestic marble coronation seat upon which
all the rulers apart from Jodha have been, and still are, crowned.
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One prize
exhibit in the museum is a 250-year-old pure silk tent seized during a raid on
the Moghul court in Delhi.
The most elaborate of the apartments is Phool Mahal (Flower Palace), a dancing
hall for the entertainment of the maharaja and his guests. Pictures of dancers,
deities and rulers look out from its walls and wooden ceilings, brightly painted
with touches of gold. Other palaces have sandalwood ceilings, mirrored walls and
decorated archways, and the last section displays solid silver howdahs (elephant
seats) and palanquins, perfectly carved and very, very heavy.
The fascinating walk up to the fort from the old city passes through busy
bazaars and communal living areas, with some streets so narrow that pedestrians
must advance in single file, vying for right of way with goats and chickens. You
can also reach the fort by taxi or rickshaw along the much longer road (5km)
that enters the old city at Nagauri Gate.
Daily: summer 8.30am-5.30pm; winter 9am-5pm; Rs50, Rs50 extra for camera, Rs100
extra for video, Rs10 elevator
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