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As the principal
staging post on the long haul to and from Jaisalmer, Jodhpur stands at the nexus
of Rajasthan's main tourist routes, with connections northeast to Jaipur,
Pushkar and Delhi, and south to Udaipur and Ahmedabad.
Although the city is well served by trains, most journeys from here (for example
to Bikaner, Udaipur, Ajmer/Pushkar and Mt Abu) are quicker by road. Buses travel
the tedious 275km to Jaisalmer between ninety minutes and two-and-a-half hours
faster than the train, but the sleeper rail service is much the most relaxing
way to cross the Thar.
Take plenty of warm clothing and a thick sleeping bag with you, as temperatures
drop to just below zero at night crossing the desert; it may even be worth
buying an extra blanket for this trip. You should also stay alert for thieves
and con merchants on this train. Lapkars from Jaislamer routinely bribe the
conductors to be allowed on board, where they attempt to recruit customers for
their dodgy hotels and desert safaris.
By Plane
Indian Airlines operate daily flights from Jodhpur to Delhi ($105), Mumbai
($150), Jaipur ($80) and Udaipur ($65). Book tickets through an agent in town,
or direct with IA at their office on Airport Road, 3km south of the centre, near
the Hotel Ajit Bhawan (daily 10am-1pm & 2-4.30pm; tel 0291-510758 or 512617).
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By Bus
Private buses depart year round from Jodhpur to Delhi, Agra, Ajmer/Pushkar,
Jaipur, Mumbai, Udaipur, Bikaner, Abu Road and Jaisalmer. The best place to book
tickets and consult the latest timetables is the reception of the Govind Hotel
on Station Road, opposite the Head Post Office, which acts as an agent for all
the main private bus companies. For government buses, which tend to be slower
but safer, turn up at the bus stand an hour or so before departure time to buy a
ticket. For timetable information, ask your hotel or guesthouse to ring on your
behalf.
By Train
Train tickets should be booked at least a day in advance at the computerized
reservations hall (Mon-Sat 8am-8pm, Sun 8am-2pm), just north of the station
behind the Head Post Office, or at the new Northern Railways bookings counter at
the tourist office on High Court Road (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm). If you're a foreigner,
you're entitled to use the International Tourist Waiting Room on the ground
floor of the main station building. Its toilets are decidedly grim, but there
are clean shower facilities.
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