Jaipur Mujra Dance

Home | Rajasthan | Ajmer | Taragarh | Bikamer | Jaipur | Udaipur | Jaisalmer | Jodhpur | Mount Abu | Pushkar

 
 

 

Long before the age of hip-thrusting Hindi-movie stars, Jaipur was the centre of a subtly suggestive Rajasthani dance form known as mujra.

Based on Sufi-influenced katha, the dance was not performed in temples, but in kothas - special havelis in the walled old town belonging to families of the dancers. Reclining on bolsters (masna ) and ornate appliqué mattresses, an exclusively male audience would gather in the late evening to be served betel on silver trays, while the women dancers, or tawaifs, performed, accompanied by tabla, harmonium and percussion. Their costumes were similar to those worn by kathak dancers: calf-length pleated ghoomar skirts that swirled open during spins, and long silk pyjama trousers with cuffs of small bells tied around the ankles to emphasize elaborate footwork.

Only certain families performed mujra in Jaipur, handing down the tradition from mother to daughter. Through the generations, they retained relationships with well-to-do families in the city who would send their sons to the kotha to gain experience of music and poetry, as well as dance. For although it was not uncommon for tawaifs to become mistresses of their clients, the Jaipuri kothas were regarded primarily as repositories of fine manners and courtesies.


 

The drift from studied suggestiveness to clumsy eroticism really only began with the advent of cinema, after which the graceful moves of traditional mujra became increasingly debased by Bollywood groin-grinding and Hindi karaoke.

By the 1950s, tawaif had become a synonym for "whore" and most kothas were basically brothels, while the few serious establishments left were forced out of business by constant anti-prostitution raids by the police. Of the 37 kothas open in 1957, only a dozen or so remain today, and most of these are pretty tawdry affairs.

Dressed in garish Western-style clothes or bright salwar-kurta , the tawaifs now do routines from hit Hindi movies, bending on their knees to pull bank notes from punters' lips with their teeth.

Claims by a Delhi-based group set up to monitor the Indian sex industry that teenage mujra dancers were being smuggled into the UK to work in illicit Asian clubs were proven to be true in 2000. In the course of an enquiry into the murder of a London restaurateur, Scotland Yard's Clubs and Vice section discovered that mujra was being used as a front for prostitution in several British cities.
 

 

Jaipur | Brief history | Mujra | Information | Arrival | Restaurants | Transport | Shopping | Moving on from Jaipur | Jaipur tours | Listings | Around Jaipur | Amber | Amber Palace | Amber Fort | Samode | Sanganer | Outside the Pink CIty | Gaitor | Galta | Nawalgarh | Ran Niwas Public Gardens | Pink City | Jaipur and the Vastu | Purusha Mandala | City Palace | Hawa Mahal | Jantar Mantar | East of Jaipur | Alwar | Travel info | Bharatpur | The Town | Travel info | - Accommodation & places to eat | Keoladeo National Park | Dastkar Crafts Centre | Deeg | Ranthambore National Park | Ranthambore Park info | Transport | Sawai Madhopur accommodation | Moving on from Sawai Madhopur | Sariska Tiger Reserve | Reserve info | Shekhawati | Brief history | The Havelis of Shekhawati | Arrival and local transport | The Khejri Tree | Dunlod and Parasrampura | Fatehpur | Travel info | JhunjhunuPracticalities | Mahansar, Ramgarth and Lakshmangarh | Lakshmangarh | Mahansar | Ramgarth | Mandawa | Practicalities | Nawalgarh | Travel info |
Nawalgarh Tiger Fort


COME2RAJASTHAN.COM © 2006