Nathdwara, Udaipur

	Nathdwara, Udaipur
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The temple dedicated to Krishna - known also as Nath, the favorite avatar (incarnation) of Vishnu - at Nathdwara, "Gateway to God", is said to be the second richest temple in India after Tirupati (in Andhra Pradesh). The site was known as Sihar until the moment in the seventeenth century when a chariot laden with an image of Krishna became stuck in the mud 26km north of Eklingji. The idol was being carried from Krishna's birthplace Mathura to Udaipur to spare it almost certain destruction by Aurangzeb; its bearers interpreted the event as a divine sign and established a new temple where it had stopped.

Nathdwara is on NH-8, and sees a constant flow of buses en route north and south, as well as two daily trains to Udaipur. Although the area around the bus stand is grim, a short ride west on a rickshaw brings you to narrow streets where stalls display incense, beads, perfumes and small Krishna statues, and blossom with the pinks, yellows and reds of temple decorations. In the centre of town the Shri Nathji temple opens for worship eight times daily, when the image is woken, dressed, washed, fed and put to bed.

The most elaborate session, aarti , takes place between 5pm and 6pm. Don't miss the radiant pichwai paintings in the main sanctuary, made of hand-spun cloth and colored with strong vegetable pigments; these original hangings possess a brilliance unmatched by the numerous copies available all over Rajasthan.

Rooms are at a premium during the festivals of Janmasthami (Aug & Sept) and Diwali (Oct & Nov). Hotels in Nathdwara and the surrounding valley, whose primary function is to serve the needs of pilgrims, include the RTDC Hotel Gokul (phone 02953/30917; up to Rs600) in the north of town overlooking Lal Bagh, and the posher Shree Resort (phone 02953/40341; Rs600-900), which boasts the town's best restaurant.