Nawalgarh, Jaipur Travel Info

	Nawalgarh, Jaipur Travel Info
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Nawalgarh, 25km north of Sikar, came into its own in 1737, when the Shekawat Nawal Singh claimed what was then a small village as the site for a fort. Thick stone walls, pierced by four gateways, were erected to encircle Nawalgarh, now a lively little market surrounded by miles of yellow desert and khejri scrub. For tourists, this is by far the most congenial base for the Shekhawati region, with a bumper crop of painted havelis , a picturesque, relatively traffic-free bazaar, good transport connections and some of the best budget accommodation in Rajasthan.

Nawalgarh is the home town of the wealthy and influential Poddar family, merchants who emigrated south to become Bombay-based industrialists and who have, over the years, sponsored the construction of schools and colleges across the country, including here. One of the town gates, formerly the Nansa Gate , has been renamed after Ramilas Poddar. It's the first you come to when approaching the town from the bus stand: turn left just inside it and follow the street round for about 250m, and you'll come to an enclosure on your left, surrounded by painted walls, many of which form part of Aath Haveli, a complex of seven havelis.

The murals here feature trains, carts, false windows (very common in Nawalgarh) and barbers at work. Taking a right turn just inside Nansa Gate and then the second right, brings you to the Surajmal Chhauchharia Haveli, where murals include a picture of Europeans floating past in a hot-air balloon. The painter took some playful license as to the mechanics involved: the two passengers blow into the balloon to power their journey.

The third right turn after entering Nansa Gate leads to the fort , housing banks and offices around a central yard crowded with vegetable vendors. The building marked "Hotel Rajendra", next to the State Bank of Bikaner and Jaipur, boasts the magnificent mirrored Sheesh Mahal, with a ceiling mural that includes maps of Nawalgarh and Jaipur. Despite its name, the building is a sweet shop; they will let you see the Sheesh Mahal for Rs10.

Heading straight on from the Nansa Gate takes you, after 300m, to a little square, beyond which stands the colorful Lakshminarayan temple . A right turn at the square brings you to the eastern gateway , called Poddar Gate.

Other havelis in Nawalgarh include Goenka Haveli , in the north of town near Bowri Gate, and the magnificent Anandi Lal Poddar Haveli , east beyond Poddar Gate (follow the main road, bearing left and then round to the right after 50m, past a trio of rather dilapidated havelis, and it's down a turning on your right).

Built in 1920 and now a school, this is one of the few havelis in Shekhawati to have been restored to its original glory. Admission to the haveli itself costs Rs20, which includes a short but informative tour; all proceeds go towards maintenance of the building.