Ramgarh, Jaipur

	Ramgarh, Jaipur
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Ramgarh, 20km north of Fatehpur, was founded in 1791 and developed almost as a status symbol by the Poddar merchant family, who made every effort to make their new town outshine nearby Churu, which they left following a dispute with the local thakur over wool tax.

They were successful; there's hardly a bare wall in town, even among the shops in the bazaar. Most of the grand Poddar chhatris beside the main Churu-Sikar road preserve vibrant turquoise and vermillion murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana within their domes, but to see them you'll have to ask for the key at the sweet shop just outside (communal tensions have resulted in some of the paintings being defaced in recent years).

The Poddar family havelis in the north of town, west of Churu Gate, are decorated with scenes from local folk stories, and a three-fish motif that is unique to Ramgarh. Temples such as Natwar Niketan, Ram Lakshman and Ganga Mandir harbour accomplished depictions of scenes from the Hindu epics and local legends; the Shani temple in the northwest of town also holds some elaborate mirror work.