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Ranakpur is a bumpy three-hour journey on regular buses from Udaipur. You can also get here from Jodhpur, via the market town of Falna on NH-14, and there are a couple of express connections to Abu Road. If you're intending to visit Kumbalgarh as well, though, think about trekking between the two sites, which are separated by one of the few remaining forested areas in the Aravallis. As Kumbalgarh is on the top of the range, it's much easier to hike from there down to Ranakpur, but guides may be arranged through The Castle Hotel for the six-hour uphill climb in the other direction.

For budget accommodation in Ranakpur, you've a choice between the rundown RTDC Hotel Shilpi (phone 02934/3674; up to Rs400) or the much more congenial Shivika Lake Hotel (phone-2934/85078; Rs200-400), 2km south of the temples near a small lake. There are also a couple of pricier hotels in the area. Nearest to the temples and offering the best value for money is The Castle (phone 02934/85133; Rs600-900), a small resort complex with twenty well-appointed rooms, buffet restaurant and pool. Further down the road from the temples, the swisher Maharani Bagh (phone0934/85105; Rs1500-2500) is part of the Maharaja of Jodhpur's luxury chain, with a stock-in-trade of large tour groups.

 

Buffet lunches, served from 12.30-3pm by waiters in traditional garb and accompanied by local folk musicians, cost a whopping Rs350.

 

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