Across the narrow Ahar River, 2km east of Udaipur, domed cenotaphs huddle together on the site of the royal cremation ground - The Royal Cenotaphs.

Raised on platforms, some of which are decorated with shivalingams , many of the chhatris are falling into disrepair, and the site is pretty dirty. Even so, it's a good place to pick up on local history, featuring an ornate memorial to the prodigious builder Jagat Singh (1628-52) and the cenotaph of Amar Singh (died 1620) who contributed so much to the City Palace, embellished with friezes depicting the immolation of his wives.

Less than 1km south of here, archeological exhibits at the Ahar museum (daily except Fri 10am-5pm; Rs4) include locally unearthed pottery from the first millennium BC. Among more recent statues is a handsome tenth-century Surya image.


 

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