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In his Annals and
Antiquities of Rajasthan (1829), Col James Tod, the first British official ever
to explore the region, wrote that the "coup d'oeil of the castellated palace of
Bundi, from which ever side you approach it, is perhaps the most striking in
India".
Walking north through the bazaar today, with the creamy stone domes, cupolas and
bleached walls of the palace spilling down the hillside ahead, you'll doubtless
agree. Built during the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries in authentic Rajput
style, this was one of the few royal abodes in Rajasthan untainted by Moghul
influence. Its appearance is surprisingly homogeneous considering the number of
times it was added to over the years, although some wings are virtually derelict
now, including the one that harbors Bundi's greatest art treasures: its famous
murals.
As some of these are hidden behind locked doors, it's a good idea to arrange a
guide to show you around; the Haveli Braj Bhushanjee can put you in touch with a
good one.
A short steep path winds to the entrance, Hathi Pole , flanked by the elephants
that are so common in the Hadaoti region. From the small courtyard within, steps
lead to Ratan Daulat, the Diwan-i-Am or Hall of Public Audience, with its simple
marble throne. Shrine rooms and the women quarters above it contain the cream of
Bundi's murals, but these lie within the so-called "closed portion" of the
palace and you'll need prior permission (or a good guide) to see them.
Other wall-paintings,
however, may be viewed in the Chittra Shala, a courtyard enclosed by cloisters
whose sides swirl with elaborate blue, green, turquoise and white images of
battles, court scenes and religious tableaux. Views over Bundi from the
projecting balconies take in the Nawal Sagar tank with its half-submerged
temple. The best views of all are from the Taragarh, though it's a steep climb
to see them.
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A walk from the palace westwards through the walled bazaar and old gateways
takes you to Rajasthan's most spectacular step-well, Raniji-ki-Baori , built in
1699 by Nathwati, wife of Rao Raja Singh. One among a hundred such wells in
Bundi, it lies deep beneath the surface of a small park, reached by a flight of
steps punctuated by platforms and embellished pillars. As you descend, look for
the beautifully carved panels showing the ten avatars of Lord Vishnu which line
the side walls.
East of town, a few kilometres by rickshaw, the beautiful Sukh Mahal - Rao Raja
Vishun Singh's summer palace - on the northern shore of Jait Sagar tank, is
where Rudyard Kipling wrote Kim . Now the regional water authority's rest house,
it is generally closed to visitors, but you can take a pleasant stroll in the
gardens further along the west side of the lake, the Sahr Bagh , which encloses
sixty crumbling royal cenotaphs. If the door to it is locked, ask for the key at
the chowkidar 's hut, on your left just after the gateway over the main road.
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