Udaipur restaurants

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The place to eat in Udaipur has long been the Lake Palace's romantic dining terrace, reached by launch from the Fateh Prakash Palace Hotel. The closest most visitors get to it, however, are the rooftop restaurants stacked behind Lal and Gangaur Ghats, whose gastronomic shortcomings and generally inflated prices are more than offset by spellbinding views over Pichola Lake to the distant Aravallis.

Many of the cheaper places in this area advertise free screenings of the James Bond movie Octopussy, with its manic boat and auto-rickshaw chases around the city's landmarks, beginning every evening, usually at 7pm. Thankfully, you can escape Roger Moore and his big balloon by heading across the lake for a tandoori at the Ambrai Restaurant, or across the bazaar to the Natraj, Udaipur's most popular thali joint.

Ambrai, Amet Haveli Hotel, Chandpole. One of the few lakeside restaurants whose cooking lives up to its location, on a spit of land facing the City Palace. Perfect for a sundowner, and their tandoori, prepared by the royal family's former chef, is second to none. Full multi-cuisine menu, with plenty of veg options, cold beer and live Hindustani music. Rs200 for two courses.
 

Fateh Pakash Palace, City Palace. English-style "high tea" served in an elegant, sunny gallery (3-5pm daily), with live Indian classical music and sublime lake views. Count on Rs175-250 for the full Monty - hotel-made jam, cream, scones and sandwiches. An absolute must for cream-tea addicts.

Kumbha Palace, 104 Bhatiyani Chotta. Better-than-average budget tourist grub (pizzas, baked potatoes, Marmite, homemade cakes), dished up on a rooftop terrace below the town-facing east wall of the City Palace. Pleasant views, big portions, very reasonable prices, and a friendly dog.

Lake Palace, Lake Pichola. Nonresidents can visit the Lake Palace for a candle-lit buffet dinner at what must rank among the world's most romantic restaurants, open 7.30-10pm. Reserve a table one day in advance through the Fateh Prakash Hotel, and dress smartly (they'll say they're fully booked if you don't). Rs750 covers dinner (Rs650 lunch), plus Rs25 if you want to look around the hotel. As a one-off extravagance, the whole experience is hard to beat, even though the food can be disappointing. more...

 

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