Natraj, New Bapu Bazaar, behind Ashok Cinema. Udaipur's top thali joint for over twenty years, but well off the tourist trail because it's fiendishly hard to find (head down Barra Bazaar from the clock tower, and ask the way when you get to Suraj Pole). Easily the best cheap meal in town: Rs45 for unlimited portions of five different vegetables, dhal, rice, papad, fresh chapatis and pickle.

Samor Bagh, near Gulab Bagh and Tibetan market, Lake Palace Road. Mostly Indian and Chinese dishes (including excellent non-veg tandoori), served on a spacious lawn beneath the City Palace, a ten-minute stroll down Lake Palace Road from the Jagdish temple. Careful, delicious cooking (their butter chicken is to die for) and a relaxed atmosphere, with fairy lights and live music or dance daily. 8am-10.30pm.

Shikarbadi, Goverdhan Vilas, 5km south along NH-8. Top-notch Mewari cuisine served on the terrace of the maharaja's former hunting lodge, on the slopes of the Aravallis. If you can, get here for 4.30pm when hordes of deer, blue buck (nilgai ), langur monkeys and wild boar mass to be fed. Lunch Rs250; dinner Rs350 per head; drinks cost extra.
 

Zannat, Hotel Hilltop Palace, Ambavgarh, above Fateh Sagar. Rooftop restaurant of swanky modern hotel (open to nonresidents). Their multi-cuisine menu is standard (go for the tandoori or Indian veg options), but the panoramic views are matchless, especially from the bar, whose terrace is the highest vantage point in the city. Most main courses under Rs100.   back

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